Today I would like to tell you about a wonderful thing like the HeadTracker. Total value – about $17.
Sorry for the ugly mounting, because adhesive tape won’t stick to the HeadPlay goggles’ glareshield. I’ve always appreciated an opportunity to look around during flight and experience the fantastic sensation of a real flight. I’d turn my head involuntarily even during my first flights. The following picture shows a demo version of the HeadTracker. Why demo? Because I really wanted to check how it would work. Yes, I could have made it aesthetically rich and use thermosetting, but I chose not to complicate matters unnecessarily. The HeadTracker consists of two parts: a transmitter and Arduino Nano. First, you should buy a transmitter and an Arduino. I used Nine Axis Degree of Freedom IMU Sensor ITG/3200/ITG3205 ADXL345 HMC5883L Module which is available on RCFair.
GY-85 Sensor Module 9 Axis 6DOF 9DOF IMU Sensor
Product http://www.rcfair.com/en/product/1566425/

Arduino Nano V3.0 is also available on RCFair
High Performance DIY Nano V3.0 Atmel Atmega328P Mini USB Development Board for Arduino
Product http://www.rcfair.com/en/product/1728751/


Now all that’s left to do is wait.
When you get the stuff, solder the connector to the transmitter. If you have done it before, you can do it yourself easily; if not, call your local cell phone repair team. I had done it before, so it took five minutes for me to solder all connectors with a thin 30Watt soldering iron.
Next thing you do is connect the sensor module to Arduino. I used wires with standard 3cm Servo connectors. The transmitter will be on the left, and the Arduino – on the right.

VCC-IN------5V
GND----------GND
SCL-----------A5
SDA-----------A4
Now you should flash the Arduino. Enter Arduino IDE in your most preferred search engine. Then open the official page and download Version 1.0.5 (that’s what I used).

Click Windows Installer (if you use Windows). Download the application, USB-connect Arduino, run the downloaded application, press Continue and wait until the flashing begins. The procedure is all automatic. Follow code/google.com/p/open-headtracker/ (paste the url into the address bar). Then open the Downloads tab and download Version 0.08.

Run the downloaded file, find DIY HeadTracker and run it. This is what it should look like:

This is not enough for really installing software for HeadTracker. Move the elements, which I marked with red lines, into the program's dialogue:

This is what should appear:

I posted all these pics to prevent you from losing your way in broad daylight as you troubleshoot. I spent 3 hours tracing the compilation error. Then press Service->Board. Choose Arduino Nano w/ATmega328. Click Service->Serial port and set COM port. To find out which port is now in use, go Devices and Printers and find our device. Then press the Compile button:

Compilation will be successful providing all steps were done properly. If not, change the controller’s COM port. Exit the application. Open Magnetrometer. Set COM port. Select Connect and launch calibration. Set the sensor horizontally, press SET, rotate the sensor 180 (the exact position is shown in the pictures), click SET, get back to the initial position and turn over it. Then press SET. Press SAVE to save the changes. Now you can exit the program. Find DIY HeadTracker GUI, select СОМ port and press Connect.

Press Start plot. HeadTracker location diagrams will appear providing you’ve done the procedure correctly.

Now we can say that the setup is complete. All we need to do is set reverses, end points, the sensor’s sensitivity, and set cam control channel numbers. Then connect the Arduino with the transmitter. I use Turnigy 9X. I should say that you cannot connect it via the trainer port, because there is no 12V power. There is only PPM and the negative end.
Now, let’s open the transmitter.

Red: power 12V; yellow – РРМ; green - the grounding. In order to connect the HeadTracker with the transmitter, follow the scheme: the transmitter’s connections are on the left, and headtracker's are on the right.

Transmitter's connectors the HeadTracker’s connectors
Red (+) ----------------- VIN
Yellow (РРМ) ---------- D9
Green (-) --------------- GND

I removed the charger connector and put the main connector through the side of the transmitter. Then I set control channels in the ‘trainer’ mode. That’s it. If you have any questions, I’ll be happy to answer. Thus I have chosen an $17 DIY HeadTracker instead of the $130 FatShark Trinity. Cost-effective, isn’t it!



The HeadTracker has 3 control axes. Last time somebody commented that it might have been somebody other than me writing. If you still have doubts, please, Skype me now!

This is the translated version. You can read the original Russian article here.