Rewinding a 2205 Brushless motor.

Hello everybody!
It’s three years since I’m in the RC hobby, and it was then that I got this kind of motor. It was intended for the well-known Cessna 150. Then it was incorporated into an overseas 4Q, then – into a Vzhik, and now it is installed in a Kesla. Although it has come through snow and water and gave a smoke, it was all right until a few days ago. It was down after I flew my KESL a few times. I guess that is due to winding damage or something like that. Well, that’s not important now.
In order to rewind a motor, you need:

1. Copper wire
2. Glue (epoxy or cyanoacrylate)
3. Patience and diligence

Although an electronic market sounds like the right place for buying wire, you can buy only a whole spool there, and we need but a few meters of it. Therefore, I borrowed wire from an old voltage transformer. It had 0,6mm and 0,48mm wire. I chose the latter, because the motor was small and it would not require high voltage. Also, I chose it because thin wire makes a bigger amount of turns and therefore creates a stronger electromagnetic field.

In order to remove the stator, you should remove the E-nut from the rear side of the motor. You should be very careful when removing the nut, so that it won’t break and you will be able to use it later. Although all I wanted to do was remove the stator, the motor completely collapsed, and the bearings fell out. Because the green insulator was intact, I could start winding. If the insulator had been damaged, I’d have had to do up the hole using some material like nail polish.

Now, what kind of winding should I use? Because the motor featured a 12-tooth stator, there was no option but LRK winding – the simplest and the quickest one.

To make winding more convenient, I clamped the stator. To prevent deformation, I wrapped it in a piece of bicycle tube between.

Wind it in the LRK fashion as shown here:

Two windings (Beginning 1-End-1) take about 80-90cm of wire. I made 35.5 turns per tooth. This motor has a specific feature – there should be 4 layers. If not, the rotor will rub against the wiring. Therefore, I chose not wind the entire tooth.

Now let’s dip the wire. Cut off the polish, dip it in soldering acid and tin it.

Now let’s see how wirings should be connected. Connection type depends on your actual goal. If you want to increase the RPM for a smaller propeller, use delta connection. If you need more power, use star connection.

I chose delta connection.

Now let’s prepare controller leads and solder them. Do not forget to run them through the opening in the stator mount.

You can cover connection points with polish if you like. I did. Put glue (cyanoacrylate) on the stator mount and firmly fix the stator. Then insert the rotor. Now the motor is almost ready.

Now all that’s left to do is fix the E-nut. If you damaged it when removing the rotor, you can take another one from a DVD-ROM or tape-recorder (look for a Soviet tape recorder). I should confess, I took one from a KDA motor replacement kit. However, if there are no nuts available and you are using a pusher motor, you can omit it.

Now the motor is ready for work. I installed it on my KESL flying wing. It features a 3-cell motor, an HK-18A control, and an 8*6 propeller. It heats up during flight, but it never feels scalding hot. The controller gets moderately hot too. The plane soars vertically, and it weighs about 300g.

P.S. this is the method that I used when rewinding my KDA 22-20 and the bell motor. Both work like clock.

Good luck and happy flying! =)
This is the translated version. You can read the original Russian article here.