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In this article I’m going to describe how I modified the battery cell circuit for a TGY 5000 6S. Recently, a European Hobbyking retailer sold out these batteries, but they wouldn’t do unmodified, because all my equipment designed for 3S. Another problem was that there were no batteries with capacity that could meet my voltage requirements, and I couldn’t physically or financially afford to buy a whole batch of different ones. Therefore, I decided to buy these batteries and tailor them to my equipment. Please, do not comment on how correct my decision was, let it be on my conscience :))
Well, here is the donor, let's go:
Well, here is the donor, let's go:
Look at the wired end:
This is the circuit diagram of a 6S1P battery (please, excuse my poor drawing skills):
And I want it this way:
I'm talking about a 3S2P. Finally, we have a 10000mAh 3S 20C instead of a 5000mAh 6S 20C. Now I take it apart. I use a powerful soldering iron with a massive tip, slightly overheated. Also, I use a balance wire for a 3S with a connector (I bought a few at AliExpress). First, I unsoldere the original connector and the power wires.
Some of them are soldered, others welded.
As we can see, the welding is not good. Disconnect the soldered ones using a soldering iron, and the welded ones – by tearing them apart (very carefully!). Here are the 6 cells:
And this is a cell:
As seen from the image, the cells are past their best, but they are worth the price I’ve paid for them. Now we’re in for the nasty operation of putting solder alloy on the terminals, which lacked it. Though not very well, aluminum does solder, it just takes a bit of patience and skill. I do it in the following way: I take a slightly overheated big-tip soldering iron, smear it thickly with flux and let it cool down a little. Then I take the soldering iron and rub the solder alloy over the terminal to thrust it between the tip and the metal. The tip removes the protective oxide film, the flux won’t interact with oxygen, and the alloy combines with aluminum. At most, 8-10 seconds, and then - complete cooling! If you have a bit of skill, you can do it all in one go and make an at least 20mm2 contact patch. Quite enough for 100A.
Then we connect the cells in pairs and bind them together with adhesive tape. To provide better contact, I made a few ‘horseshoes’ out of a 2.5mm2 piece of copper wire, blanched them and soldered them on the top.
Put the pairs together in a block and bind them with tape.
The middle cell looks the other way! Pretty rough, but that’s no big problem, because the flux does not contain acid. To connect the cells, I used the same piece of wire, except it was paired:
Now all that’s left to do is solder the power wires and the balancing connector. I isolated the wired end of the battery with a piece of polyethylene (how else is it called?) and covered it with adhesive tape. And I dressed the opposite side in the original wrapper. Then I put the battery through the charge-and-discharge cycle to check it for dry joints. Now I’m ready to take off.
This is the circuit diagram of a 6S1P battery (please, excuse my poor drawing skills):
And I want it this way:
I'm talking about a 3S2P. Finally, we have a 10000mAh 3S 20C instead of a 5000mAh 6S 20C. Now I take it apart. I use a powerful soldering iron with a massive tip, slightly overheated. Also, I use a balance wire for a 3S with a connector (I bought a few at AliExpress). First, I unsoldere the original connector and the power wires.
Some of them are soldered, others welded.
As we can see, the welding is not good. Disconnect the soldered ones using a soldering iron, and the welded ones – by tearing them apart (very carefully!). Here are the 6 cells:
And this is a cell:
As seen from the image, the cells are past their best, but they are worth the price I’ve paid for them. Now we’re in for the nasty operation of putting solder alloy on the terminals, which lacked it. Though not very well, aluminum does solder, it just takes a bit of patience and skill. I do it in the following way: I take a slightly overheated big-tip soldering iron, smear it thickly with flux and let it cool down a little. Then I take the soldering iron and rub the solder alloy over the terminal to thrust it between the tip and the metal. The tip removes the protective oxide film, the flux won’t interact with oxygen, and the alloy combines with aluminum. At most, 8-10 seconds, and then - complete cooling! If you have a bit of skill, you can do it all in one go and make an at least 20mm2 contact patch. Quite enough for 100A.
Then we connect the cells in pairs and bind them together with adhesive tape. To provide better contact, I made a few ‘horseshoes’ out of a 2.5mm2 piece of copper wire, blanched them and soldered them on the top.
Put the pairs together in a block and bind them with tape.
The middle cell looks the other way! Pretty rough, but that’s no big problem, because the flux does not contain acid. To connect the cells, I used the same piece of wire, except it was paired:
Now all that’s left to do is solder the power wires and the balancing connector. I isolated the wired end of the battery with a piece of polyethylene (how else is it called?) and covered it with adhesive tape. And I dressed the opposite side in the original wrapper. Then I put the battery through the charge-and-discharge cycle to check it for dry joints. Now I’m ready to take off.
This is the translated version. You can read the original Russian article here.
Agree, non-esthetical soldering, but it is strong and reliable. And still, all removed under a layer of the shell.
shorter if doing so "YY" instead of "p" (hopefully understandable))))-then everything will be more aesthetically pleasing.
on the first battery I just so tried, so when the test operation one moustache still drifted away. Well, that charging voltage exceeding zfiksirovala Bank and tormoznula charge.
if the battery was at 5000 mAh (i.e. able to issue 1 ampere within 5:00), then how would we not perepaivali banks, the same 1 amp within 10 hours he does issue won't be able to.
Judging by your logic, if you resolder again (2S3P schema) can be achieved and 20,000 mAh?
If any perpajke battery capacity well does not change. Volts (voltage), amps (allowable current) is Yes. More serial links-more voltage. More parallel-more current. When _postoânnoj_ the container.
E = U * I * t. I * t is capacity in ampere-hours. U is reduced to 2 times, then ...
. This is not, and mAh just mah. Then Yes, reduced voltage in 2 times-has increased the value of MAH. And energy has not changed.
is not taken into account that the tank on the package indicate it is for specific values of U, we actually change perepajkoj cans.
excuse me, please, was wrong.
Was 6S 5A, became 3S 10A, can make 2S 1S 15A, 30A. What is the difficulty?
However, see above, I've realized the mistake.
Why not? Just parallel connection increases the total capacity of the "final" batteries.
you are contradicting yourself by yourself)))-
>> if the battery was at 5000 mAh (i.e. able to issue 1 ampere within 5:00
i.e., 1A x 1.5 = 5AH
>> parallel-more current ( 1) then 2A x 2 h = 10Ač
, in two basins of water more than twice in one. And if both pouring water into one thick pipe, you can move mountains))))).
the threat: chances are you could be confused with the current output. ...
Math must first learn, then write articles.
when brazing aluminum good helps ordinary tablet of aspirin as a flux. The odor, however, sharp, but zaluživaetsâ well. By the way, OVERHEATED soldering work is highly undesirable-oxidized obluženaâ working surface stings, a result dramatically reduced adhesion.
with respect.
well, you know better. Good luck!
next, parallel connection of cans influence has no balancing. Charge is distributed strictly is inversely proportional to the capacity of cans. All tudnost′ only in soldering.